I did some research and found that in 1996 and 1997, chevy's 5.7 liter vortec would make an outstanding basis for a high torque streetable mid 400 HP engine.  It has a roller cam and heads that can be cleaned up to flow decently.  I found one in Macon GA at a salvage yard for $1000.  When I tore it down, it had absolutely no wear and was clean as a pin inside.  I used Howton's Machine in Hueytown Alabama for the rebuild as they came very highly recommended and have tons of experience building racing engines.  We bored the block .030 over and added an internally balanced Eagle 383 steel crank, 6 inch Eagle H-beam rods, Weisco forged pistons with 9.5 to 1 compression, Comp Cams custom grind cam and steel roller rockers, Crosswind Air Gap intake, Holley 770 Street Avenger Carb, MSD 85551 Distributor and 6A ignition box, and Hedman Ceramic Coated headers.  The 2002 LS1 T56 6 speed was never intended to work with a SBC engine and I ran into problems finding a bellhousing that would mate the two.  I used a Weir Hot Rod Products Bellhousing kit.  It comes with Weir's internal hydraulic slave cylinder and a really strong aluminum bellhousing.  I also opted for Weir's 1 inch clutch master cylinder.  A SPEC stage 2 clutch with their aluminum flywheel and a custom driveshaft finish the package out. 

I have taken several pictures of the progress of this project...  These are thumbnails that will take you to the big pics when you click on them.  I have made a lot of progress since these pics were taken and will have to take some more to bring this page up to date. 

My shop and mess.

Engine Pics.
   

Motor mounts I made...

 
 
From the bottom...

Here is the transmission crossmember I made.  1 inch square tubing bolted to the framerails with a plate inside the framerails to bolt to. 

Bob Weir Hot Rod Products LS1 T56 6 speed bellhousing kit.

Massaged the firewall back about 1.5 inches.  Moved the passenger wiper back about an inch to make the wipers clear the inside of the firewall.  Should work fine.

Radiator mounts.  Made from 1/8 inch diamond plate aluminum.  I made a cardboard template first to resemble the mounts as I wanted them to look.  Then I traced the pattern onto the sheet of aluminum and cut it out.  A buddy of mine has a sheet metal brake and bent it up for me.  I used 5/8" heater hose as a vibration isolater between the radiator and mounts.  The lower mount is about an inch higher than the front crossmember.  The aluminum plate is very rigid. 

The stock condenser mounts were cut off the back side of the front core support and welded to the front side.  The condenser fits perfectly.  The plan is a 16 inch Zirgo 2700 cfm electric fan pulling on the radiator side and dual 1100 cfm 10 inch fans pushing from the front side through the condenser.

Had to massage the firewall back a little on the passenger side to get the Hedman S10 V8 swap headers to clear.  I used an air hammer with a blount bit and moved the floorpan back easily with the engine still in the body. 

The driver's side headers swing wide...  The S10 steering shaft is supposed to go through the headers.  The RX7 steering shaft runs under the tubes which had to be dimpled to clear the shaft.  If you are hunting for headers, don't get the s10 headers, get the jeep v8 swap headers instead.  They don't poke out on the driver's side as much. 

The MSD ignition fits next to the stock ECU under a plate on the passenger floorboard.  I tried to find a good spot under the hood that would be a clean setup.  The wires will run through the speedo cable grommet and pop out next to the distributor and coil.  All the inputs for the MSD 6a are at the ECU's connectors. 

The alternator upper mount is an old45 acp barrel from a Para Ordinance P14-45.  The stock RX7 alternator lines up perfectly with the outside crank and waterpump pulleys when in this position.

The lower alternator mount is the old stock alternator tensioner bracket welded to an extension to reach a lower bolt hole on the block. 

Yes, I gotta have AC.  The factory AC compressor will work fine.  I am going to have to lengthen the suction side hose 9 inches to make the line reach from the firewall.  The bracket I made for it still needs a little work.  I just noticed that I won't be able to get a plug in the #1 hole until I whack off the upper compressor mount hole....  at the top of the mount in the picture.  There are 4 other bolts still there after I cut off the top one.  Should be good.  The pulleys line up with the inside groove on the crank and water pump pulleys.  I like that I was able to retain the stock tensioner.

Send mail to foprange@bellsouth.net with questions or comments about this web site.
Last modified: November 06, 2005